Route 2
2. Duisi - Shua Khalacani - Zemo Khalacani - Torgva Pankeli - Duisi, (duration about 3 hours)
On the rout leading from Duisi to Zemo Khalacani we suggest to go by a typical Kakhetian two-wheeled cart, pulled by a pony so cold "arba”.
Crossing Alazani river on the way from Duisi to Shua Khalacani might be a bit fearful, but Kistinian horses are able to cross Alazani, even when water level is high. O the way, in Shua-Khalacani we are passing an old Kistynian cemetery on the left (to the north), several meters further a small household mosque, and approach next village, in greater part Kistynian - Kvemo Khalacani.
In the village there are a lot of houses abandoned by Ossetians, in which Kists are settling at present. That’s why many renovations are being made in the village.
In Kvemo Khalacani the main road turns right and goes uphill. At this point we are getting if the arba, and depending on the choice continue by foot or on horseback.
Our guides never forget about refreshments. We are climbing for about 1,5 hours to the top, where a chain of fortifications named Torgva Pankeli begins, it was built in the times of the queen Tamara, by the end of XII century.
Fortress and the majority of the grounds of today's gorge once belonged to a Georgian duke named Torgva Pankeli. He was descended from Georgian highlanders – Pchowi, and trusted men of queen's son and successor- king George Lasha. Together with other magnates he set a conspiracy against Mongolians, which conquered Georgia in first half of XIII century.
Conspiracy was discovered and Torgva Pankeli was executed by Mongolians.
On the right side directing our steps up we approach one of the fortress towers from which a beautiful view spreads over Alazani river valley, other side of the Pankisi gorge, a valley inhabited by Tuszyns – with their lowland central village visible – Alvani. Reaching further, we can to see a Georgian cathedral Alawerdi from XI century (The Alaverdi holiday so cold Alaverdoba falls on October 15th), one of the most important pilgrimage places for Georgians from the whole country, Georgian highlanders from Kachetii and to until recently
also Kists.
We come back to the main path, which leads along fortifications, after about 10 minute walk we reach a Georgian church situated at the very end the fortress. His ruins are well kept, there are clear traces of windows, doors, altar, old and very frescoes.
There is a passage in the temple floor lading to underground corridors and rooms build under the whole fortress and the church. Directly under the church there is a place of burial. A guide assists visitors as it is easy to lose your way in the underground corridors. It is possible to come back to the front of Torgva Pankeli by underground corridors.
Torgva Pankeli was built in a communication wise location and in good view point. It is a part of a signalization system. People from Pankisi used to light fire on top of the buildings to pass on most important messages from fortress to fortress, mainly warning from enemy approaching the village.
After reaching the tower guides will light fire also, no to send signals but to prepare Caucasian barbecue and treat us with wine or beer. A barbecue in this place tastes like nowhere else in Pankisi.
