Route 13
13. Omalo (Pankisi) - Horadżo
Advised as a part ofRoute Omalo - Horadżo - Czhatana - Nakerała - Omalo (duration 3-4 days)
This rout leads through beautiful, diverse and highest parts of the mountains which are closing the Pankisi gorge. During this trip we will sleep in shepherd's shelters and also get to know the local cuisine. It is also possible to hire horses for the whole rout.The Nakerała pass is our destination, it is situated at the being of the main ridge visible from Duisi, the largest village in Pankisi gorge. Route begins in Omalo, inhabited by Kists, Georgian Chechens. We recommend a walk around the village right before the sunset, when the villagers sit in front of the houses on benches, they chat, tell jokes, comment on the events of the past day and they certainly will notice a group of guests with rucksacks. Omalo village is an example of characteristic Kistinian architecture. There are houses on both sides of road, often ornamented, surrounded with luxuriant gardens. There are small springs in front of many houses, where we can always have a drink. A small mosque is situated in a the central part of village, with somewhat clumsy, dumpy, but picturesque minaret.
We leave the village slowly. We are heading north and moving along the Alazani river on horseback. On the opposite bank we can see a nice wide road, we do not cross the Alazani river but keep on going along the left bank. We are surrounded by hills overgrown with forest.
After some time on the right we see Obolabonesz. The villagers say that 200 years ago there used to be a village where Kists’ ancestors lived after arriving from Chechnya. Nowadays Obolabonesz is just an overgrown thin forest glade. We can see a stone, a low wall about a dozen or so meters long. It may look like they are remains of a former farm. As we go to the other side of the wall, it turns out that this is cemeterys’ fens. The cemetery is very worn out, there are only several stone plates. One monument distinguishes itself among old tombstones, looking like modern graves. We can read, that a men named Abdullah is buried in this place and he lived between 1924 and 1950. The rest of graves are characteristic stone plates, on one of them we can see the Moslem half-moon with a star as well as the inscription in Arab.
We walk from Obolabonesz by the left Alazani’s bank (northern direction). Route leads by a forest, several times it crosses few streams joining the river. In some places path becomes rocky and steep (if we are horseback riding we will have to get off). With time however it becomes more comfortable and it goes lower to Alazani.
On the other side of the river we see a wide, comfortable road (we can get here from Duisi)
It is mainly used by lorries with stones from the mountains. Then a bit industrial scenery appears in front of us, typical for a quarry- a tin building pipes and pylons.
Our path now leads very near to Alazani. (it is also possible to start from coming here by car and later cross the river on horseback).
This is a very characteristic place in which we turn right (going from Omalo). We move along a different, smaller river. A comfortable road leads us though a forest, once a while we can admire more and more beautiful views of mountains overgrown by trees.
It is clear, that we are slowly moving away from human residence. We walk about 1h by this road. We cross a stream. A healing spring in situated near this place - mineral water with heavy sulphur concentration ( it has a characteristic smell) - supposedly it helps to cure lung and stomach disease. A path on the left leads to the spring. We go further by our road which slowly transforms in to a mountain path. Here and there it becomes winding and steep. We cross numerous streams on our way, we have to be very careful if we ride on horseback. After about 1,5h we reach a picturesque village - Horadżo (about 2.45h from Alazani river). (it concerns inhabited in mountains this all places) As in all mountain regions populated by people we have to be aware of potentially dangerous dogs.
Horadżo is an old - 200 years old Kistinian settlement. Only one shepherd's family lives here now, as farmer says he is a representative of fifth generation of Kists living in this place. The hamlet looks like a well kept open-air ethnographic museum. There are seven stone houses with walls made from stone plates put together (coming in side we destroy bats' peace...).
The most important multi-storey house be inhabited. Unusual stairs lead to the first floor, to habitable part – it is a kind of stone pyramid where we climb to a wooden, shadowy bower.
All the equipments in the house have museum value and it is hard to believe, that they are not exhibits, but things used daily.
Described farm is sitated on the left side from the path. On the right there is a cemetery, with several stone plates put vertically in the ground.
